By Charlene Arsenault

When people think of The Bean Counter, they often think coffee. Long winners in the “best coffee” category of our Best of Worcester ballots, the place (and there are now two — one on Highland Street and one in Shrewsbury) does have some delicious brews.

But there's a baking machine behind that cute little coffee shop, one that was started long ago in Alice Lombardi's kitchen. Lombardi, who owns both Bean Counter locations, had no intention of building the dessert dynasty she has managed to create. Engulfed by the corporate world, as she has a degree in industrial engineering, she worked in manufacturing, and then healthcare consulting. Then she had kids.

“Our priorities changed,” says Lombardi. “I quit my job to be a stay-at-home mom. I always liked to be in the kitchen and thought it was very therapeutic. You'll see that a lot of professionals gravitate toward it.” And, she argues, baking — as opposed to cooking — complements the brain of an engineer. Dessert-making is far more of an “exact science.”

Lombardi started by accident. She would bake for her mom's coffee hours in the neighborhood, where a friend commented that she should try selling her creations. She toted an apple pie to the fanciest place in her neighborhood — The Jefferson House Grille. They loved it. The business then mushroomed right out of Lombardi's basement through word-of-mouth, a savvy business sense and attention to detail. Soon, she was supplying the desserts for at least nine upscale restaurants. 

It became too big of an operation for her house, so Lombardi Bakery Service Inc. took root at The Bean Counter, which she purchased eight years ago. One year ago, she opened the Shrewsbury location. Servicing desserts to places such as Joey's, Willy's Steakhouse, 111 Chop House, Coral Seafood, The Flying Rhino and countless other restaurants and country clubs, Lombardi oversees a staff of 30 now. Some locations request Lombardi to create an exclusive dessert for them, such as the Chocolate Mousse Explosion and a green tea tiramisu.

The Bean Counter locations also carry more than 80 varieties of her decadent desserts, all created from scratch. Most recently, her cake business has skyrocketed, and she's devoted staff to creating wedding cakes.

“I grew up in the kitchen with my grandmother,” says Lombardi. “Everything was from scratch, including noodles. I do like to cook a lot, but I decided that I can manage baking better than cooking. I don't mind baking for 200 but cooking? I can't do that.”

So next time you think of stopping into The Bean Counter, don't just think about ordering a cup of java. Think about picking up a slice, or ordering a cake for your next party.

Most important kitchen tool: “A mixer”

She'd love to bake for: “Someone in the food industry. I want to say Emeril Lagasse. He's just very eclectic, and I like that he has natural ingredients.”

Famous people she's baked for: “A lot of the times when we make pastries and desserts we call them VIPS, but half the time I don't know the identity. We'll get an order from an organization that represents them. People in high-power industries. A lot in the medical and political field. Tim Murray is a customer of ours. On Highland Street it's ‘Cheers' without alcohol.”

Music she likes to bake to: “Classical music.”

Favorite thing to make: “It has to be chocolate. I would say the Molten Chocolate Cake or Chocolate Espresso Explosion. That's my own little creation and was the basis of a dessert that I developed for Willy's. It's a show-stopper.”

Can't eat it: “Maybe bitter melon.”

In her refrigerator at home: “Soy milk, lots of vegetables, green leafy vegetables, cheese and a half a pecan pie for my son.”

For dinner last night: “Chicken carbonara that I made myself.”

Call The Bean Counter for all your sweetness needs. 508-754-3125? (Worcester) and 508-754-0505 (Shrewsbury). o

Wine tastings? New chef? New menu items? Opening a new place? Expanding? Eat something good? Eat something bad? Did your mom win a pie recipe contest? If it's directly or indirectly related to food and drink, we want to hear about it. Direct any and all of your juicy foodish news and tidbits to Charlene at This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it , or call 508-749-3166, ext. 245.